TNR information

Trap Neuter Return is a humane
effective way to reduce the number of stray and abandoned cats living
on the streets, as well as to improve their quality of life.
Here’s an outline of our recommendations, but please contact us for more detailed support. We also have a few helpful fliers promoting spay/neuter of pets, and TNR.
English flier promoting spay/neuter for pets
Japanese flier promoting spay/neuter for pets
English flier promoting TNR
More helpful links…
Getting started
You’ll need to arrange to borrow traps, and you should prepare the following items:
1. Pieces of cloth to cover the traps after cats are inside.
2. Pet sheets to put under the traps during transport.
3. Strong smelling food for bait.
4. plastic lock ties to secure the traps.
5. Scissors to cut lock ties when necessary.
You’ll need to arrange veterinary service, keeping the following things in mind:
1. Find a vet that has experience working with ferals.
2. Discuss having the tip of one ear cut, to clearly indicate alteration.*
3. Agree on the cost for males/females, and research city subsidies.
4. Discuss additional services, such as vaccines, parasite treatment, etc.
5. Plan for surprises, such as pregnancy or injuries, which may increase the costs.**
6. Make appointment, leaving room for inability to catch.***
You’ll need to arrange transportation/holding area:
1. A private car will be easiest.
2. Public transport is possible with adequate carrying preparation.
3. Prepare overnight location, if schedule makes that necessary.****
4. Make an effort to limit stress for the cat, as much as possible*****
*Ear tipping may sound cruel, but it
can be well worth the small amount of discomfort it causes the cats. It
allows people to easily identify cats that have been altered, and saves
a great deal of wasted effort in re-trapping mistakes.
**JCN’s position on pregnancy is
that it should be terminated and the cat must be spayed. Vets working
with ferals are generally comfortable with this, but you should discuss
it beforehand to better plan, and there is generally a small additional
cost.
***Weather can be a factor, as can
other mishaps involving passersby. Be sure the vet knows that you are
trapping before the appointment, and may not be able to keep it if your
trapping is unsuccessful.
****Depending on clinic services, and
appointment timing, you may need to keep cats somewhere overnight. They
can stay in the traps, but never leave them unattended in traps, in a
location with access to the public. Do not release cats less than 24
hours after the operation, as they may be dizzy, and unable to protect
themselves.
*****The longer feral cats stay
confined, the more stressful the impact, which can weaken their immune
system. Try to time everything well, so that you are trapping them,
getting them to the vet, and releasing them in a 24 hour time-line.

Trapping day
You’ll need to stay calm.
1. Cats pick up on fear, and will be easier to trap if you are calm.
2. Stay quiet, with slow movements.
3. Remember your goal–you are giving them their only chance at a reasonable life.
Bait and set the trap.
1. Don’t let the door shut or make a lot of noise when setting up.
2. Put a little bit of food leading up to the trap, and on in to the back end.*
3. Set the trap on as level ground as possible.
4. Set the trap in a place that the cat considers safe.
5. Don’t leave the trap unattended.**
Wait and watch.
1. Back up enough to make the cat feel safe about approaching the trap.
2. Watch from a distance, and have the cover ready.
3. Rush over as soon as you see the cat has been trapped.
4. Secure the trap doors with plastic lock bands.***
5. Cover and remove the trap from the location quickly.****
Check the cat.
1. Leave most of the cage covered while checking, reducing stress.
2. Raise the cage above your head, if necessary.
3. Check the cat for obvious injuries, or for signs it has been nursing kittens.
4. Address the issue of kittens.*****
5. Let the vet know about any injuries that you might see.
*Put only a little food outside the trap or leading in, as the cat can become somewhat satisfied and refuse to risk entering.
**Leaving a trap unattended leaves a
trapped cat vulnerable to any passersby, and terrible things have
happened to caged cats left unattended in public areas. It generally
doesn’t take very long to trap a cat, if the cat is actually in
the vicinity, so you probably won’t have to wait long.
***If a cat gets out after trapping,
it will be difficult or impossible to catch it again. Do not release a
cat that has not yet been altered. If you catch a cat that you had not
planned to catch, alter your plans.
****If you will trap other cats, you
don’t want them to see a cat in the trap in distress, so get it
out of the location. Be careful not to pinch cat’s feet, when
setting the trap down.
*****If the cat looks as if it is
currently nursing (nipples are distended), search for kittens. Carry
the mother with you, as the kittens may respond by crying for her,
alerting you to their location. Mother cats will go back to care for
kittens, and are capable of nursing, even after being spayed. So, weigh
the advantage of getting the cat spayed quickly and back, compared with
releasing her and risking the inability to catch her again. In the
reverse, that is if you find kittens but don’t see a mother, use
the kittens to trap the mother. Put the kittens in a cage or carrier
adjacent to the trap and cover everything, so that the mother must
enter the trap to see the kittens. It is far easier to care for newborn
kittens if you can catch the mother, who will do most of the work, and
a much better job than you can.
Follow up
Get the “R” right–it means Return.
1. Not Rescue–ferals are not happy in a shelter, which is only a kind of terrifying prison for them.*
2. Not Remove–if they don’t go back, new unaltered cats will take their place.
3. Not Release–they are unlikely to survive in an alternate location.
4. Not Regret–you’ve certainly done the best thing to give the cat a chance.**
5. Not Relax–they will still need maintenance care.
6. Additionally, Relief–people report feeling much better about the situation, once TNR is completed.

Maintenance care
Be a responsible caretaker.
1. Be responsive to complaints from neighbors by addressing problems.
2. If necessary, let neighbors know what you’re doing, and explain.
3. Enlist the approval of the local animal control, when possible.
4. Feed and water cats without creating a residual mess.***
5. Watch for any new abandonment and address immediately.
*The only exception would be ferals
that are injured and have a good chance of a speedy recovery. Even
then, everyday is a hardship for them, so confinement for
rehabilitation should be as limited as possible. Do not release cats
that you know are in no shape to survive. Kittens under 4 months old
should be socialized (if possible), severely injured or seriously
health compromised ferals should be euthanized, and friendly adult cats
should be rehomed. JCN does not, however, euthanize otherwise
non-health compromised FIV or FELV positive cats.
**It’s natural to feel sorry for
causing the cats discomfort, and they will certainly look to be in
distress after trapping. But they have no future without the help you
are providing, so feel secure in that, and carry on. They will almost
always fall back into their normal feeding patterns within a few days
after release.
***Feed on concrete, without paper
plates, and don’t leave behind packaging or bowls. Don’t
put down too much food down, which might rot if not eaten. Feed wet
food, if possible, so that the cats get added moisture.